It will eventually become New Zealand's leading Pinot!

Small is Beautiful

Olatera is a fairly new winery that opened in 2023. However, when I met winemaker Wilco Lam on-site, listened to him explain the meticulous process, and sampled the Pinot Noir aged in barrels, I couldn't help but think, "This is a new winery."

"This could potentially become a Pinot Noir that represents Martinborough, or even New Zealand."

It hadn't even been bottled yet, but it was so delicious I was floored. It had depth, delicacy, and a long finish. Everything about it gave me the feeling that it had the character of a great wine.

Wilco originally came from Dry River, one of Martinborough's most important wineries. Following the sale of Dry River in 2022, he has now taken the lead in launching a new microwinery called Olatera.

His dedication is also reflected in his in-depth knowledge of cloning.

"Depending on the clone, Pinot Noir will have a completely different character. For this reason, we select the clones that best express the individuality of the Martinborough region, ferment and age each one separately, and then blend them together at the end. We ensure that the taste never has an overly fruity flavor."

Listening to him talk, I was reminded that we should not simply dismiss Pinot Noir wine as a single variety.

Diversity within a single variety is what producers focus on. Expressing the flavor of the land requires a deep understanding of the land and accumulated experience. Then, they select and cultivate clones that suit the land. The resulting grapes are fermented separately, and the aged raw wine is blended to create the finished product.

I realized that such mind-bogglingly delicate work is essential to making great wine.

I had the opportunity to taste the Pinot Grigio aged by clone, and as he said, they all had a subtle fruitiness and were elegant.

Some have an earthy scent like walking through a forest, some have a prominent floral scent, and some have smooth, supple tannins. You can clearly hear the subtle differences in nuance.

Geology, microclimate, clonal characteristics, vintage - the ability to interpret all these factors. I felt that this was the work of a specialist.

What was also impressive was the scale of the winery. The production volume is very small, and everything is done by hand. The winery is compact, like a converted barn. To pursue such attention to detail, the winery needs to be large enough to keep a careful eye on each clone and barrel. "Small is beautiful." Olatela is a winery that truly embodies this philosophy.

Cultivation and brewing

All the fruit is hand-picked and harvested in small containers. The next day, it is cooled, sorted, destemmed, and then placed in a 900kg fermentation tank. Natural fermentation is encouraged, with occasional manual punching down. The goal is to "gently extract" the fruit, ensuring that no single element stands out too much and that everything is in harmony. The fermentation period is 14 to 20 days. The wine is then transferred to 300L and 500L oak barrels and aged for 12 months. After blending, it is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Tasting

From the glass, the first aroma is soft and fruity, like plum, and the gorgeous aroma of rose petals. As time passes, the warm and sensual aroma of vanilla and tanned leather emerges.

The palate is very delicate, with a rounded and calming first half. The acidity in the middle gives the wine rhythm, and the fruit and oak combine in the second half, leading to a lingering finish. With supple tannins and a gentle volume, this is a wine that you can enjoy a dialogue with the drinker.

This is a wine that doesn't tell you everything easily. Drink it slowly, allowing it to open up and gradually reveal its many layers of charm.

Pairing

The "quiet complexity" of this Pinot Noir makes it a particularly good match for carefully prepared meat dishes.

• Roasted duck loin (with red wine and balsamic sauce) → The wild flavor of the duck and the acidity of the sauce are matched perfectly with the acidity and fruitiness of the wine and the nuances of tanned leather.
• Chicken thigh fricassee → The creamy white stew blends beautifully with the gentle tannins of the wine.
• Grilled pork shoulder (red wine sauce) → The rich flavor of the meat resonates with the nuances of the wine barrel.
• Oven-baked Camembert and walnuts → The nutty elements and richness of the aged cheese blend with the thickness of the Pinot from the middle onwards.

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The price is At ¥10,340 , it's not cheap, but it's well worth the price. It's probably at its lowest price now, and the price will likely go up in the future.

I hope that this one bottle will share with you his understanding of New Zealand, his love for the Pinot Noir grape variety, and Wilco's undeniable technique and sensibility.

This is a bottle that gives off the feeling that it will one day become New Zealand's most representative Pinot!

About the Winery "Oratera"

Martinborough wine, refined and wild, born from golden soil

Olatera is an up-and-coming winery based in Martinborough, in the Wairarapa region of New Zealand's North Island. It began in October 2024. A team of six people who had honed their skills together at the prestigious Dry River winery decided to go independent and take on a new challenge, launching a new project in their hometown of Martinborough.

They are based in the historic vineyard formerly known as "On Giants' Shoulders." While inheriting the land, they have adopted a new name, Oraterra (Golden Earth), and are now redefining the appeal of this land, with the belief that they will "remain faithful to the energy of the earth."

Respect the land and minimize intervention

Olatera's winemaking begins with a thorough dialogue with the land. They see themselves as the "guardians" (kaitiaki) of their fields, and use organic farming without the use of pesticides or chemical fertilizers, as well as biodynamic farming methods that take into account the phases of the moon and the movement of celestial bodies. Furthermore, they do not irrigate, trusting in the ability of the vines to find water and nutrients on their own, and practice regenerative farming methods that work in harmony with nature.

This hands-off approach is also fully applied to winemaking, with only the bare minimum of human intervention required, from natural fermentation with wild yeasts to barrel aging and bottling. The result is a precise, well-defined wine that truly reflects the character of the land, climate, and vintage.

A collaboration of sight and taste

The Olatela labels feature artwork created by a Martinborough-based artist who visualized the winemaker's "taste image." Each label is different for each wine, and can be considered a "cover" for that bottle alone. They are so beautiful and meaningful that they make you want to collect them as art.

Respect for the land and people

Oratera is more than just a wine brand; it is a land-based project that values coexistence with the local community. We value collaboration with local schools, artisans and Māori hapu (communities), building a cycle that is integrated into the local economy and culture.

Oraterra Martinborough Pinot Noir 2023

item	Content
Winery Name	Olatera
Country of origin	new zealand
Origin	Wairarapa Martinborough
kinds	red
Grape variety	Pinot Noir
Vintage	2023
Alcohol content	13.0%
capacity	750ml
remarks	Cork stoppers