Oratelea Martinborough Pinot Noir 2024

This will eventually become NZ's flagship Pinot!

Small is Beautiful

Oraterra is a very new winery, having started in 2023. However, after meeting winemaker Wilko Lam in person and hearing about his meticulous craftsmanship while tasting the Pinot Noir aging in barrels, I couldn't help but think:

"This might just become a representative Pinot Noir for Martinborough, or even for all of New Zealand."

It was still before bottling, but it was so delicious it knocked my socks off. Its depth, delicacy, and long finish – in every aspect, it had the "dignity of a great wine."

Wilko originally came from Dry River, one of Martinborough's important wineries. With the sale of Dry River in 2022, he took the lead in establishing Oraterra, a new micro-winery.

His dedication is also evident in his deep knowledge of clones.

"Pinot Noir shows completely different expressions depending on the clone. That's why I choose the clones that best express the characteristics of the Martinborough terroir, ferment and age each separately, and then blend them at the end. The flavor should never be an exaggerated expression of fruitiness."

Listening to him, I realized again that Pinot Noir wines should not simply be dismissed as "single varietal."

Diversity within a single varietal. Producers focus on that. To express the taste of the land, a deep understanding of the land and accumulated experience are necessary. And then, selecting and cultivating clones suitable for that land. Fermenting the harvested grapes separately, and blending the aged base wines to complete the wine.

I realized that such painstaking, delicate work is essential to create a great wine.

I tasted the base Pinot wines prepared from different clones, and as he said, they were all understated in fruitiness and elegant.

Some had an earthy quality, like walking through a forest, while others had prominent floral aromas. Some showed supple and smooth tannins. It was clear that each had subtle nuances.

Geology, microclimate, clone characteristics, vintage — the ability to interpret all these elements. I felt that this truly was the work of a specialist.

And what was particularly impressive was the scale of the production. The production volume is very small, and everything is done by hand. The winemaking facility is compact, like a converted barn of a detached house. To pursue hisこだわり (dedication to perfection), the scale must allow for careful attention to each clone and barrel. "Small is beautiful." Oraterra was a winery that embodied this philosophy.

Cultivation and Winemaking

Martinborough in 2024 will be remembered as an outstanding year, alongside 2013, 2001, and 1998! Although spring was cool and unstable, leading to reduced fruit set, summer conditions were impeccable, with sustained strong sunshine and almost no rainfall. The long period of warm, dry weather resulted in superb quality.

In Oraterra's vineyards, all fruit is hand-picked into small containers. It is then cooled and sorted the next day, destemmed, and transferred to 900kg fermentation tanks. Of course, fermentation is separated by clone. Natural fermentation is encouraged, with occasional manual pigeage. The goal is "gentle extraction." To avoid overemphasizing any single element, ensuring everything is harmonious. This is their winemaking style.

After 18-24 days in the fermenter, the wine is pressed and transferred to 300-500 liter large barrels for 12-18 months of aging. It is then blended, considering the differences in clones, and bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Tasting

Dark fruit takes center stage. There's also a concentration reminiscent of dried figs. Aromas beyond fruit are also present, with complex notes of herbs and spices, as well as a smooth bittersweetness like cacao and milk chocolate.

The aroma changes over time, gradually revealing its multi-layered charm. The taste clearly indicates that 2024 is a great vintage.

Wilko says, "I want to keep the fruitiness understated. My ideal is a wine with a clear umami line. I aimed for a taste that flows smoothly from the moment it enters the mouth to the finish."

Pairing

The "quiet complexity" of this Pinot Noir would pair particularly well with carefully prepared meat dishes.

• Roasted duck breast (with red wine and balsamic sauce) → The gaminess of the duck and the acidity of the sauce match the wine's acidity and fruitiness, as well as its leathery nuances.
• Chicken fricassee → The creamy white stew and the wine's gentle tannins blend beautifully.
• Grilled pork shoulder loin (with red wine sauce) → The rich savory flavor of the meat resonates with the wine's oak nuances.
• Baked Camembert with walnuts → The nutty elements and the richness of aged cheese merge with the mid-palate depth of the Pinot.

The price is ¥10,340, which is certainly not cheap. However, it offers excellent value for the price. This is likely the lowest price now, and it is expected to increase in the future.

I hope to share with you the understanding of the land of New Zealand, the love for the Pinot Noir varietal, and Wilko's reliable skill and sensibility through this one bottle.

This bottle is filled with the premonition: "Will it eventually become NZ's flagship Pinot!?"

About Oraterra Winery

Martinborough Wines: Refinement and Wildness from the Golden Earth

Oraterra is an up-and-coming winery established in Martinborough, Wairarapa region, North Island of New Zealand. Its journey began in October 2024. A team of six individuals, who had honed their skills together at the prestigious "Dry River," embarked on a new project in their hometown of Martinborough with a spirit of independence and renewed ambition.

They set up base in a historic vineyard formerly known as "On Giants' Shoulders." Inheriting this land, they adopted the new name Oraterra (meaning "golden earth") and are redefining the charm of this place, holding firm to the belief of "being true to the energy of the land."

Respect for the Land, Minimal Intervention

Oraterra's winemaking begins with a thorough dialogue with the land. They view themselves as "kaitiaki" (guardians) of the vineyard, employing organic farming without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, and biodynamic methods that consider the phases of the moon and celestial movements. Furthermore, believing in the vines' natural ability to seek water and nutrients, they do not irrigate, practicing regenerative agriculture in harmony with nature.

This "non-interventionist" approach is thoroughly applied in winemaking as well, with minimal human intervention from wild yeast fermentation and barrel aging to bottling. The result is a precise, core-driven wine that directly reflects the character of the land, climate, and vintage.

Collaboration of Sight and Taste

Oraterra's labels feature artworks created by a Martinborough-based artist, visualizing the "flavor image" conceived by the winemaker. Each wine has a different label, serving as a unique "cover" for that specific bottle. They possess a beauty and meaning that makes them desirable as art collectibles.

Respect for Land and People

Oraterra is not just a wine brand, but a "land-rooted project" that emphasizes co-existence with the local community. They prioritize collaboration with local schools, artisans, and Māori hapū (sub-tribes), fostering a circular economy and culture within the region.

About the Wairarapa Region

"Wairarapa" is located in the southeast of New Zealand's North Island, and with its easy access, about an hour's drive from the capital Wellington, it is also a popular resort area.

The sub-region of "Martinborough" within this area is known as one of the world's top Pinot Noir producing regions due to its climate and soil conditions, which are very similar to those of "Burgundy" in France.

Oraterra Martinborough Pinot Noir 2024